Duramax 6.6L 30 PSI Base Kit, 60 PSI With Extension Kit, & 60 PSI With Regulator Kit
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(1) 2.5" Billet CNC machined aluminum end cap featuring an anti-slip bead and machined grooves for grip during high pressure testing
(1) 30 PSI Boost Gauge
2.5" Stainless Steel T-bolt Clamp
Air fitting
(1) 2.5" Billet CNC machined aluminum end cap with ¼" NPT air fitting — features an anti-slip bead and machined grooves for grip during high pressure testing
(1) 60 PSI Boost Gauge and stainless steel shut-off ball valve
(1) Extension hose with quick release connection to boost leak tester
(1) Teflon tape for assembly
(1) 2.5" Billet CNC machined aluminum end cap with ¼" NPT air fitting — features an anti-slip bead and machined grooves for grip during high pressure testing
(1) 150 PSI Pressure Regulator
(1) 60 PSI Boost Gauge and stainless steel shut-off ball valve
(1) Extension hose with quick release connection to boost leak tester
(1) Teflon tape for assembly
This boost leak tester is designed to work on ALL Duramax 6.6L engines except the L5P — LB7, LLY, LBZ, LMM. Fits Chevy Silverado, GMC Sierra 2500HD/3500HD, Express, Savana, Topkick, Kodiak — 2001-2004 LB7, 2004.5-2010 LLY/LBZ/LMM, 2010-2011 LGH, 2011-2016 LML. Also works with all aftermarket 3" hot pipes using the stock turbo.
Remove the hose off the turbo compressor discharge and slip the tester inside the hose. This hose is what connects the turbo outlet to the hot pipe leading to the intercooler/CAC. Clamp the tester inside the hose, then use your air compressor to test up to 60 PSI and detect any leaks in the whole charge pipe path the turbo normally pressurizes while boosting — including the hot & cold pipes, intercooler/CAC, Y-bridge, EGR, and all clamped connections, with no need to cap off the other end. You'll be able to listen for any leaks.
The 5 ft extension hose makes it easy to control pressure without leaning over the engine bay.
"Why don't I just test at the inlet?" Our response is that it's much more complicated to test at the turbo inlet. The plastic inlet pipe has PCV connections routing to the valve covers that would need to be blocked, or test pressure will go into the charge pipes and the motor's crankcase — putting a large stress on all the oil seals. There's also more piping and connections to remove when testing pre-turbo. This tester installs on the compressor outlet/discharge and finds leaks in every connection after the turbo — where the wearable joints and connections that break down over time actually are. The turbo's compressor cover isn't an area of concern, especially if it's stock.
"I can't build pressure, or the gauge reads 0 PSI" Check the EGR valve — there's a very good chance it's not closing completely, dumping all the test pressure into the exhaust.
Always wear safety glasses and face protection. Stand clear from the tester when under pressure, as it or any other component may blow off during pressurization.
Start with a low pressure on your compressor and work your way up — the largest leaks will be found first; fix them and retest to find the next smaller leak. A good starting pressure is 10 PSI, working up to 20 or 30 PSI, or whatever you normally boost when driving.
If your system is filling too slowly, increase the pressure on your compressor outlet, but be cautious not to over-pressurize the charge pipes. The boost gauge on the tester will indicate the charge pipe pressure. Soapy spray can be used to identify smaller leaks that may be hard to hear.
If the system isn't filling at all, there's a leak large enough, or something is disconnected. No — you do not need to cap off the other end. The charge pipes and engine will hold the pressure without it escaping through the engine into the exhaust.
After fixing all obvious leaks, use the shut-off valve to keep pressure trapped in the system and evaluate how well it holds. About 1 PSI loss every second or two is normal — at higher pressure (e.g. 20 PSI) it will drop faster, then slow as it approaches 0 PSI.
Purge all the air first before removing the tester. Now enjoy making boost with confidence!
TURBO BOOST LEAK TESTERS, INC. and its directors, employees, and affiliates are not responsible for any injury, death, or property damage associated with the purchase and use of any product(s) purchased from Turbo Boost Leak Testers, Inc. The purchaser assumes sole responsibility for ensuring all safety precautions, restrictions, and warnings are followed, and for complying with all state, local, and federal laws. Purchase from Turbo Boost Leak Testers, Inc. constitutes understanding and acceptance of this disclaimer. When using compressed air, always wear approved ANSI safety glasses or goggles and stay clear of the line of fire. Be aware of other components on the engine that will be pressurized during testing — these may also explode and act as projectiles. Always set your air compressor to a low outlet pressure to avoid accidental overcharging, and do not exceed your vehicle's calibrated boost level. Always remove the oil cap to vent excess crankcase pressure — this prevents potential engine oil seal damage.